The Flu

"What the hell is this place?" I have asked myself this question before but not in this context.


The walk to work was as dirty as ever. They have an interesting approach to sanitation here. The technology skips are interesting here. Cell phones are so cheap that a Korean child will acquire a new phone once or twice a year yet I have yet to see a dumpster anywhere in Korea, including Seoul. Garbage trucks patrol the streets looking for piles of trash into the early hours of the morning. Food waste has it's own special container and in the summer it in not unusual to see hordes of flies crowding around spoiled kim chi and rotten noodles. Toilets, sinks, and even the occasion bath tub lie in the open lots surrounding my apartment complex. Nature trails are never as pristine as they are back home. I've heard from fellow teachers that we foreigners are to blame for the expired mon-doo and rotting chopsticks scattered around town.

Yet walking into the old school today was stranger than usual. The swine flu has always buzzed in the background of this place. You know the swine flu with the .42% mortality rate. Well that buzzed like a fly in my ear every once in a while. A case reported here. A school shut down there. Nothing ever direct. Today the flu barged into my life. The secretaries roam the halls spraying anti-bacterial crap. The students visit a mandatory sanitizing hand lotion stand between classes. Masks wait at the door for anyone to take. Some say they mark the sick, other say it wards of disease. I think it just breeds disease as bacteria laden breath is trapped in by the filter and grows if the masks aren't changed or washed frequently. I wore a mask for irony's sake. A child tried to convince me he had a better mask, that I wore a beggar's mask.

So while the school is scrubbed and boiled and bleached into cleanliness oblivion while the streets, even in my suburb, buzz with the last flies of the summer. Munching on old galbi and potato pancakes.

It's almost a secular religion here, the cleanliness. Whether in relation to race, facial hair, or apartment, clean and pure and squared away is how it's supposed to be. It's almost a superstition the way the secretaries parade around the halls spraying the righteous air sanitizer amongst the foul foreigners attempting corrupt the children. The absolute certainty that the masks combat anything except the dignity of the wearer and the flies buzzing around outside are just the work of the white devil.